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December 20, 2004


Fusion Trinity...sounds like a computer game

Ceiba-two-colors.jpeThe holy trinity of fusion restaurants in downtown DC that is Ceiba, DC Coast, and Ten Pehn got one thing right before they even touched a stove. They got a good PR person.

I picture virtuoso uberchef Christopher Clime of Ceiba sitting down with investors in a shady dark bar somewhere. He slowly shakes his head as designer after nervous designer unrolls fabulously graphics-rich website plans, delicate logo prints, exquisite bathroom sink catalogs, subtle business card designs, and their all important choices of individual hand-crafted bottled water cooler for each distinctive table.

dccoast-logo.jpeAll of these restaurants have the look down. You will furtively smuggle out the hand-painted napkins that your Ceviches arrive on in order to frame and put it on your wall. Guests arriving for a birthday can expect to find specially printed menus with their name on it to greet them. The desert creme brulee trio comes to your table in an elaborate candelabra.

tenpenh-logo.gifWith this kind of packaging, food wouldn’t need to be good. Fortunately, it’s damn tasty too. Appetizers here beat out main courses any day; the true Clime connoisseur orders two or three appetizers and wine (much to the chagrin of their well coiffed servers). Suggestions:

Ceiba

  • Cerviches Sampler
  • Sugar Cane Skewered Jumbo Shrimp
  • Malpeque Oysters

Ten Pehn

  • Red Thai Curry Shrimp
  • Thai Style Coconut and Chicken Soup (served in a coconut)
  • Malpeque Oysters

DC Coast

  • Cast Iron Crock Steamed Prince Edward Island Mussels
  • Thai Mushroom and Goat Cheese Anaheim Chile Relleno
  • Malpeque Oysters

In case it’s not obvious from the above, eat the Malpeque Oysters. Standard preparation is soaked in some kind of alcohol, topped with ginger. Actually, just forget the rest of the food and get four servings of oysters.

Posted by zaf at December 20, 2004 11:16 AM

 

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Comments

I gotta agree that the oysters are pretty damn good. I had the ones at DC Coast, chilled with "Vodka-Japanese pickled ginger ice." Whatever that is. I'm normally a little squeamish about oysters, but these went down with no reservations. Also had the risotto, a little too rich for my taste, but decadent and comforting at the same time.

Posted by: D.I. at December 20, 2004 4:05 PM

I've necer been to Cieba, and would like to try it, but I've been repeatedly dissapointed with DC Coast and the one time I went to Ten Penh I was rather underwhelmed. Expensive, trendy, and well marketed, yes, but those are really at the bottom of my list of criteria when picking restaurants.

Posted by: Michael at December 20, 2004 4:20 PM

a) Ten Penh is spelled incorrectly throughout. This wouldn't be so bad if you hadn't included the image of their logo, which shows the correct spelling.

b) Personally, I've only eaten at Ten Penh, but I've been favorably impressed with everything but the prices every time I've eaten there. Great ingredients, well prepared, and only a little bit too fancy/stylized.

c) I think if you're talking about these three restaurants as a unit you might give more credit to Jeff Tunks, the chef who is also an owner/partner in all three, rather than to the chef who is responsible for two menus only because he recently moved from one restaurant to the other.

Posted by: Nate at December 21, 2004 2:31 PM

Eek about the spelling! Thanks Nate! Yeah, on second thought, serious credit has to be given to the owners- good food only goes so far. And for all I know, Clime doesn't even like shady dark bars.

Posted by: zaf at December 21, 2004 5:15 PM

I have long lamented the lack of casual dining locales in the District, and have come to realize that this city, is for the flashy and stuffy. So, Ten Penh, with is over stylized atmosphere/ingredients and its lack luster reviews, only made the more sense to me as to their complaints about Ten Penh's astonishingly supposed over priced items. But, come to think of it, as one of the priviledged few who can afford some battle scratches here and there, I ask, do I really care? NO! God bless America, God bless my money, and God Bless Ten Penh for a wonderfully executed elitist dining experience.

Posted by: Darryl Van Lorne at March 23, 2005 11:59 AM

 

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