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February 24, 2005


DCFüd Responds: Spices!

spices.jpgA friend of DCFüd wrote us and said:

“So, wandering around the grocery store last night, I realized that I need to start cooking with spices. Returning home and looking in my cupboard, I found: ground black pepper and Goya Adobo (With Pepper!). A basil plant grows on my windowsill. And that's it. ‘How will I ever figure out what spices to buy to begin my collection,’ I fretted. Then a voice inside reminded me that I know, oh, about seventy-five percent of DC's premier food bloggers.”

The result, dear readers, is the first installment of DCFüd Responds! Since this is a really huge topic, it’ll be answered in multiple parts, but answers to future inquiries will perhaps be more succinct. But, without further ado, here is:

Spicing, Part 1 (of ?):

Proper spicing is critical to all cuisine, and will very often make or break your dishes. It’s also not as hard as one might expect. In a series of posts to come, we will talk about various spices, how you might use them, and what good they can do you. But first, a couple of quick tips to get you started.

Like all cooking, it’s a matter of taste: what you like may not be what your sister likes. Some people wretch at the merest thought of cilantro, I pile it on. I’ve heard that there are even some people who don’t like garlic! To start off, let’s introduce the basics of spices.

1. Flavors. There are innumerable spices and flavors out there, and an infinite number of combinations thereof. For general purposes though, remember that spices, in general, can be “hot,” “cold,” “earthy,” “sharp,” “sweet,” and “piquant” (that’s ‘spicy-hot,’ like jalapenos), among other adjectives, and the trick is getting your dish to the right place on each of those scales. That place is different for every dish, and for every dish depending on the chef’s personal tastes. The goal is getting what *you* want. If you find your dish is too sharp, add something earthy. If it’s too earthy, add something sharp. Or something hot. Play around.

2. Fresh or not? Fresh herbs are almost always best, but are not as readily available and are more expensive, so we often make do with dried ones. Dried herbs tend to be more powerful (concentrated) than fresh, so use less in your cooking. They also may have considerably different flavors, and react differently in your recipes, so take care and learn the difference. You learn the difference by trying things. I can’t write how to do that.

3. Find inspiration. Try to recreate flavors you've liked: Think about what you've eaten in the past, and how it tasted when you smell your spices. You probably won't get exact matches, but you may find things you like as well or better, and it'll help you learn. There is no such thing as a lost cause. See number 1.

4. Smell everything. Smell tells you tons about taste, and it’s the best way of predicting how a flavor combination will work. When you’re cooking and want to add a spice, test it first: smell your dish, then your spice, then hold the spice jar over the pot and smell the combination. If the combination smells good, go for it.
You can also use this trick to decide if a combination of spices is what you want: hold the two jars together under your nose, and consider the combined aroma.

5. Go slow at first. Some spices are more powerful than others. Four or five cardamom or fennel seeds will flavor a vat of curry, but you’ll need a spoonful of coriander for the same dish. Once you get more comfortable with spicing and with individual spices (more on that later), you’ll learn to intuit how much of what to add, but for now, just add a sprinkle at a time. On the other hand, do *not* be afraid to screw up. If you add too much of something, experiment: the dish is already not what you were expecting, why not make something entirely new that might be brilliant?

We’ll explain why later, but for starters, you should always have the following spices in your kitchen (besides salt and black pepper, which I hope you have already!):

- Fresh garlic. It keeps well when stored in a cool, dry place (not the fridge!), goes with nearly everything, and is possibly the Ultimate spice. Try roasting the cloves whole, you’ll get a sweet, delicious goo to dress salads or melba toast hors d’ouvres. Plus, it’s very good for your health!
- Garlic salt. See above, but this form is great for convenience and as a table spice.
- Ground cinnamon. It’s not just for baking! Used sparingly, cinnamon can really brighten up meats, especially gamey ones like lamb and venison. A sprinkle in your chili will take it up a notch. You can also use it as a no-calorie, South-Beach friendly, sweetener for puddings, dressings, etc.
- Cayenne powder. Even if you don’t like your food very piquant, keep this stuff around and learn to use it. Both piquant and earthy, cayenne can really bring a dish together. Especially good for moderate piquancy – dust a little on your steaks before grilling to bring out the flavor. Remember though: this is different than Chili Powder, which is a mixture of cayenne, cumin, alum, and other spices that you use when making chili.
- Rosemary leaves. Warm, a bit sharp, and highly aromatic. Sprinkle on for perfect lamb chops, add to a salad for extra flavor. Take a couple redskin potatoes, mix in a bowl with olive oil, garlic salt and a good bit of rosemary; roast them for a treat.
- Sage. Get the leaves, not the ground kind – it lasts longer and tastes better. Sage is warm, aromatic, and lovely on meats and with roasted veggies. It’s not as overpowering as some spices, so don’t be afraid to add more.
- Ground ginger. Less piquant and less sharp than the fresh kind, but still with a lovely fresh hot flavor that can really “break up” an overly earthy flavored dish. This is a key ingredient in many Asian dishes, including stir-fry, curry, and tempura dressing. Mix sesame oil, soy sauce, and ground ginger with rice vinegar for a refreshing, tasty, and health salad dressing.

Other Füd types and myself will be posting more about spices soon – this is just the beginning, and should get you off to a good start. We’ll talk more in-depth about more spices, have recipes, tips, and other things, especially if we get more questions!

Posted by maw at February 24, 2005 2:51 PM

 

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Comments

Some seasoning aficionados insist on only fresh herbs, but I hate buying a bunch of fresh (insert your favorite herb here), using a tablespoon and having the rest turn into slime in my refrigerator. On the other hand, dried seasonings sometimes just seem like gray-green sawdust. I recently heard of a nice compromise, located in the freezer section of your local Safeway. Apparently they sell flash-frozen packages of your favorite aromatic herby greens (No -- not THOSE greens). I haven't had a chance to test them out. Anyone have any experience with these?

Posted by: ljk at February 24, 2005 3:27 PM

I would add thyme, somthing I've only just discovered. A soup recipe called for it, and is a great finishing touch. I've started using it as much as sprigs from our rosemary bush.

similar to cayenne pepper would be kochijan (I'm not korean, and I don't know how to spell it in english) a red pepper paste (granted not a dry spice). Put in some stir fry, in pretty much anything for a savory spiciness.

Posted by: travis at February 24, 2005 9:59 PM

it's more likely to be anglicized as "gochu jang" in case anyone wants to google it. ;)

Posted by: ljk at February 25, 2005 9:23 AM

or, also "gotchu," "jjang," or any combination of the above.

Posted by: ljk at February 25, 2005 9:26 AM

Cilantro is the 357 of my spice arsenal. But it is also something to not purchase in its dried form; the flavor of the dried has nothing on the fresh greens.

Agreed on thyme, definitely.

And whatever you do, please avoid that pre-packaged minced garlic in a jar. Yuck!

Posted by: Kanishka at February 25, 2005 9:35 AM

I like thyme. I'm with Kanishka on dried cilantro - don't bother - and canned minced garlic has its place: nowhere near me!

Posted by: Michael at February 25, 2005 11:03 AM

I love the red pepper paste - it has a deep, roasted-like flavor, and it lasts forever - but I think the single essential pepper element is Rooster Sauce. Technically it's called "Sriracha," but whatever. Most folks see the rooster on the bottle. You know, the one with the green lid. Biggest thing on the table in a pho place. There's very few savory foods that don't benefit from a squirt or two of the Rooster.

I'm a Penzey's fan, myself; their garlic powder puts the jarred minced garlic to shame.

Posted by: YooHooligan at February 26, 2005 4:43 PM

Regarding minced jarred garlic, yes, it is revolting, and surprise, you guys have a traitor in your midst. That's right, I happen to know that an unnamed dcfud staffer buys the stuff! I'll let you figure out who it might be.
Anyways, thanks for helping me out in my quest for a complete kitchen. I will out buying spices post-haste.

Posted by: b. at February 28, 2005 2:26 PM

Great article; good suggestions.

Cumin’s a definite in my book when it comes to must-haves. I use bay leaves pretty frequently, as well as tarragon, but the latter’s kind of a love-it-or-hate it choice. What’s the consensus on pre-made spice combinations, such as Herbs De Provence, BBQ rubs, steak seasonings, curry powders, etc.?

Some other “don’t bother in dried form” choices: basil and parsley. Ginger-in-a-jar, though, is terribly convenient when you don’t feel like dealing with the damn root.

Posted by: MJF at February 28, 2005 3:54 PM

Of the pre-made combinations, I'm a fan of poultry seasoning, a blend of basil, rosemary, sage, marjoram, thyme, and oregano. I've had good experiences with blended chili powders, such as a mild one, supposedly for enchiladas, that I picked up prepackaged at Rodman's. I keep a ready-made garam masala for attempted Indian cooking, but for some reason I avoid pre-mixed curries in favor of blending my own.

I second MJF's recommendation on cumin. It can be used in many different types of dishes and should be one of the first seasonings acquired.

Posted by: snh at February 28, 2005 9:36 PM

Tony Chachere's Creole seasoning is a nice mixture - it's based around salt and cayenne and is a really nice way to add a little zing to anything in a hurry. It's not too overtly Cajun so it does work on just about anything. Sazon Goya is another one I'm learning to use - it makes everything red, but goes great with green beans and fish.

Posted by: SEP at March 1, 2005 10:11 AM

Anyone know of a good spice store (other than Whole Food, TJ's, Wegman's) in DC or metro DC area?

Posted by: Demetrius at September 2, 2005 12:07 PM

 

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February 24, 2005