Crummy but Oh-So-Good

The Vienna Inn is one of those places that doesn't look like much from the outside, and when you step inside it still isn't much to look at. No design consultant has ever swooped into the building and mandated mood lighting and art deco furniture. Instead, photos of local sports teams and beer paraphernalia pepper the walls. It's the kind of brik-a-brak that places like T.G.I. Friday's, Applebee's and Ruby Tuesday aspire to, but they fail miserably because they don't have customers that personally hand-color letters in crayon for them. It's that kind of place -- a throwback to times before "community" was overwhelmed by the relentless sprawl of the suburbs and it seems the menu prices still reflect that as well. You can eat like a king for $10.

And at these prices, don't expect service. You fill your own drink order at the soda fountain, may be asked multiple times if you've ordered and you won't receive a check at the end of your meal. Payments are taken through the honor system at the counter. On the other side of the restaurant, you might find some creaky-looking regulars perched at the bar, quietly disappearing their drafts from frost-rimmed mugs and commenting on the game playing on one of several TVs.

I sampled three items from a surprisingly extensive menu that included a breakfast menu with your standard diner favorites to sandwiches and other bar munchie staples. First the cheese fries, thin and crisp, were dusted with salt seasoning and given a generous pour of gooey cheddar cheese. If you're sharing these, eat all the extra-cheesy fries first or someone else will eat them for you. Next the Fried Red Chili Peppers, nugget-sized rounds filled, not with poisonous Cheese Wiz-like filling, but soft cream cheese cradled on top of a red pepper, all contained in a wonderfully fried coating with a firm crunch. Dip one of these endearing little bites into the habanero plum sauce and you are in heaven. The habanero sauce looks deceptively like jelly, but adds a sweet heat to the creamy crunch of the popper. Lastly, there were the chili dogs. I ordered mine "loaded" and it arrived on a small paper tray. The dog was tucked into a soft bun, coated with a slick of chili and hot melted cheese, and counter-pointed by crunchy bits of white onion and the tang of spicy brown mustard. Like all good chili dogs it requires two hands, a big mouth and plenty of napkins.

If you like your servers surly, your atmosphere no-nonsense and your food down-home good, make the trip to the Vienna Inn. You can even start at the Eastern end of the W&OD trail and bike your way to the Vienna Inn for a refreshing pit stop, or if you choose to drive, rent a keg or two on your way out. I'll be there with one hand in the habanero sauce and chili-cheese dripping down my chin.

Vienna Inn
123 Maple Avenue East
Vienna, VA 22180