Mac and Cheese

The original recipe calls for half the macaroni we used, yielding a dish that contains more dairy than pasta. Considering this excessive, WRC doubled the pasta portion when he made this at my place last week.
I just finished off the last of the leftovers, which turn into a solid block of cheesiness in the fridge, and have to say I'm really impressed. Especially with how little time it took to make (not much more, really, than the kind from a box). There are lots of places to make this dish your own (what cheeses you use, how much hot sauce, etc.), so I expect that everyone who makes it will get something a bit different.

Ingredients
1 pound elbow macaroni
4 tbs. butter
2 eggs
6 oz. evaporated milk
1 1/2 tsp. hot sauce (we used Sriracha)
1 tsp. kosher salt
Lots of fresh black pepper
1 tsp dry mustard
10 oz cheese: mostly sharp cheddar, but also some other strong melty cheese(s) like gruyere or gouda

Cooking
In a large pot, boil pasta in salted water. While this is happening:
Grate the cheese
In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, hot sauce, salt, pepper and mustard.

When the pasta is cooked al dente:
Drain the pasta, return it to the pot, and melt in the butter
Stir in whisked bowl of ingredients
Stir in the grated cheeses and cook over low heat, stirring, for about 3 minutes/until it's all creamy and melted.

You could also serve it with some shaved parmesan or asagio on top.

Enjoy!

Radio Free Steak

Two articles of note:

First, I Heard It on NPR -
The employees of Saveur magazine have listed their 100 favorite restaurants, food, drink, and, well, things. (The above URL has the link for the list, as well as the story from NPR, which is well worth a listen.) (As an added bonus, they include the recipe for perde pilavi, a Turkish wedding dish. If anyone tries it, let us know how it turns out.)

Second, Steak a la CBS -
The Early Show has an interesting story on choosing the right steak on a budget.

Best. Salad. Ever!

Salads are very big in my family. We pretty much have a salad with every dinner, even if the main dish(es) are vegetable-based. This may have come about because it’s just about the only form in which my paternal grandmother will eat anything resembling a vegetable, but no one is sure, and at this point it’s so ingrained in our routine that it doesn’t matter. Last night, we had a salad that was really and truly a cut above the rest, inspired (as so many great dishes are) by “what’s sitting on the shelf.”

The proportions here are, naturally, all completely arbitrary and for reference only. Play around!!

Salad:
- A bunch of mixed mesclun greens;
- A bunch of fresh (raw) spinach greens;
- A couple of handfuls of dried cranberries;
- A handful of chopped kumquat peels;
- 2 very ripe pears, cut into bite-sized pieces;
- 1 cup frozen (actually, thawed) peas.

Dressing:

- 3 tbs. good quality olive oil;
- 3 tbs. good quality white vinegar;
- A teaspoon or so of chopped garlic;
- Splash of lemon juice;
- Salt and black pepper to taste.

Dress the salad about five minutes before serving to let it all marinate a bit.

Top with crumbled blue cheese.

Enjoy!!

Frazzled Service, Fulfilling Food at Bangkok 54

Checking out one of the few inexpensive restaurants to make the Washingtonian’s top 100? Good idea.

Checking it out right after the magazine hits the stands? Less inspired.

Three friends and I went to Bangkok 54 last weekend to see why the Arlington Thai restaurant was earning such raves.

We were greeted with about a half hour wait sans reservation, which wasn’t bad at all considering how packed the place was, and the fact it was a Friday night. More frustrating is that it took the entire thirty minutes for us to get our drinks from the bar, and one of them was incorrect. I enjoyed my mango ginger margarita, though.

Once we were seated, service was inattentive and frazzled. A waitress took 20 minutes to “be right back” to take our orders. Appetizers took a considerable amount of time to arrive. A friend’s main dish order of pineapple fried rice lacked, well, pineapple.

But boy, was the food good. Won ton soup was perfectly spiced; papaya salad was a cool choice for a chilly night, but still delivered. I ordered 54’s Spicy Roast Duck, which was similar to a dish I’d had at a neighboring Thai restaurant a week before, but in a different league. Topped with basil and fried to a crisp (though slightly greasier than I might have liked), the dish finished with such a hot, savory kick that friends who sampled it said they had trouble tasting their own meals afterwards. Which was really too bad – one had ordered the five-spice braised pork, and it was absolutely delicious, sweet without being cloying. Jasmine tea was a nice accompaniment.

Overall, the restaurant probably deserves a break for being swamped during such a busy time, and the bustling atmosphere might have appealed to a more patient crowd, as it sure felt like a “hot spot”. But next time I go, I’m making it a weeknight.

Bangkok 54
2919 Columbia Pike
Arlington, VA 22204
703.521.4070

DC Culinary Tour

Part of any good traveling experience is culinary; sampling the local cuisine even if it's only different versions of things you have at home is always advised. This is especially true in a place like Washington where just about any nationality you can think of is represented in some way. With a little effort you can find whatever suits you here, and some things that are woefully gross and you'd do better to avoid.

On this trip it just so happened that my first experience dining out was at an old favorite - Full Kee in Chinatown. Now, I am going to complain about Full Kee. And many of you are going to cock your heads to one side and say, 'Dear boy, you bought Chinese food in Chinatown. What did you expect?' But to those of you I say that there have been many times when I was the only gringo in the place (whatever the Chinese version of gringo is) and I was able to order very good family style Cantonese food here. A few months ago it was here that I enjoyed the best bowl of noodles with brisket that I've ever had. This time I was disappointed with the Pan Fried Noodles w/ Shrimp ($8) I ordered, which were largely tasteless and cool. I'd definitely go again, but I think the trick here is to ask for what the kitchen staff or servers might eat, as I did with the noodles last time. I had better luck and an adventure of sorts. [ed. note: Full Kee underwent renovations and a change in ownership last year, and may still be sorting things out]

After the theater the original plan was to have dinner at a smallish Italian place near the KC whose name escapes me. Due to a dinner crunch we ended up calling ahead to the Circle Bistro, which serves a large French menu to guests of the Washington Circle Hotel and anyone else looking for a very pleasant meal in a refined atmosphere. Several members of my party ordered the Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchi ($19), which arrived in a shallow dish with Fall vegetables. A small sample revealed firm Gnocchi in a mild cream sauce, with hints of sage. I chose the Classic Tartare of Hereford Beef ($12), served with a paper cone of pomme frites. It was really very good, with the taste of fresh ultra-rare beef undercut slightly by quality capers.

Coffee junkies that we are, we spent quite a bit of time in coffee houses or places that cater to coffee house types. Tryst is an old favorite, serving dozens of coffee drinks and teas in a sort of yard sale chic atmosphere. I had a good but very strong Egg Nog with Rum here. The food is pretty good as well, perfect for studying or reading with. Sandwiches, for instance, run $6-7 and are made on site by actual humans with quality ingredients. Two relative newcomers, looking to capitalize on the popularity of Tryst, are Open City and Busboys + Poets. I thought Open City had a delicious Soy Latte, then noticed why: all their coffee is roasted by and purchased from Tryst. (I've since been told they're actually owned by Tryst.) Busboys + Poets has the same intricate tea services as Tryst, with a large stage in back for the inevitable poetry slam. All these places make it clear that it's really difficult to get a lousy cup of Joe in DC except for in the Dirksen cafeteria.

Utopia is in a row house in the U District, and has really made an effort to leave some lasting mark on the neighborhood with a sort of Afro-Cuban decor and live jazz when we visited. I pounce on good Mussels when they're in season (months ending in "R", kids...) so I had to try them in Lemon Caper Cream sauce. I really didn\'t expect the sauce to be as good as it was; complex, a bit sweet, and completely worth the untold hours on the treadmill it will take to make it (and the two pieces of bread that soaked it up) go away. I think I\'ll be mentally filing Utopia away as a place to return to later.

In addition to all the places in DC to dine where one is expected to dress as if they just climbed out of the Banana Republic window, there are other very tasty and far less formal spots, like Julia's Empanadas. There are three in various spots in the city but my favorite is on 18th NW across from Madam's Organ. It's really hard to be elitist about the favorite cuisine of labor union organizers and socialist revolutionaries that's best eaten with two hands and a Guava juice. The window outside purports that each is "handmade with love," and I'd believe it. For looks the little pastry pouches can't be beat, and the taste is a delicious break from the normal bland pub food.

Also in Adam's Morgan is the fantastic Amsterdam Falafel. Like Julia's, Amsterdam caters to the late night crowd of revelers with simple fare. Serving only three main items—a small falafel, regular falafel, and pomes frites - in the upstairs of a small row house, Amsterdam does what it does very well. Each falafel is crunchy on the outside and surprisingly flavorful inside. Served plain, it's up to you to decide what you'd like from a bar of toppings including tahini and other made on-site relishes and chiffonades. I especially love the jalapeno and cilantro herb relish. While I love a nice - as we say in the south, 'sit-down' meal - sometimes eating from a paper pouch while you walk down 18th is a lot of fun. Julia's and Amsterdam are an absolute must when I'm in Washington, and for comfort food they've got my vote.

This was written by guest contributer NMJ.

Tapas time

Ah, tapas. You and your cured meats and your rich cheeses and your rich marinades and your small-plates-that-falsely-lead-me-to-believe-I’m-not-gorging-myself.
I love you so.

I renewed my love-affair with the late night Spanish dish when a friend and I took out a visitor from Pasadena to Jaleo’s Crystal City location last week. Three of us didn’t really need nine tapas. But boy, did we enjoy them. The roundup:

Quesos de Espana: Jaleo’s cheese plate includes Murcia, Picon, Idiazabal and Manchengo, if you can't stick to just one. The portions aren’t giant, but they end up being more than you need, once you order other items. I’m always partial to manchengo, though picon was a little pungent for my liking; overall, I enjoyed all four choices.

Spanish sausage: If you get the variety plate, Jaleo provides you small slices of chorizo, soria, butifarra, salchichon, with a toasty bread to match. Rich and spicy.

Duck confit with pear sauce: One of my favorite dishes, this was incredibly rich – the duck was juicy without being too fatty, and the sauce nicely balanced the bird’s sauciness.

Octopus with paprika: Eh. It tastes as you’d expect it to taste. Didn’t mind the rubbery texture, but the overall effect was a little more bland than I’d hoped.

Tortilla de patatas: This was probably my choice as top dish, though it wasn’t anything particularly unique. Served warm, to my surprise, this tortilla was savory and flavorful, despite there not being much to it. Very filling and satisfying.

Spanish mackerel: I could have done without this choice, but my two dining companions raved, so I’ll chalk it up to my antipathy towards fishy-tasting fish. Simply prepared, showing off the fish itself.

Steamed mussels: This is a great buy at Jaleo as they give you more mussels than you’d expect for a tapas order – I’m not sure we even fished them all. The bay leaves are really prominent in the broth’s taste, and that’s a good thing.

Marinated beef: I’m frustrated with myself for not remembering this dish exactly – I think it was slices of beef tenderloin, cooked rare. No complaints; thin, juicy beef with a melting texture.

Spinach with pine nuts: A surprise hit, there was just enough olive oil and sweet accent (raisins) to make this vegetable stand out.

You can’t really go wrong with Jaleo – it’s priced moderately, the waitresses are friendly and low key, the atmosphere is colorful and laid-back. Though the sherry lemonade isn’t anything to brag about – we should have picked up some sangria at the bar before heading to our table. Next time.

Jaleo
2250 A Crystal Drive
Arlington, VA 22202
(703) 413-8181
Other locations in Bethesda and downtown

$8 for lettuce, or, why WASP cuisine does not reign supreme

Surely, an appetizer at this upscale Upper Northwest restaurant advertised as an "iceberg wedge with Maytag blue cheese and applewood smoked bacon" would be something substantial. Would the cheese and bacon be artfully arranged on a bed of crispy lettuce? Maybe the lettuce would be used to separate the two heartier ingredients, assuring crisp bacon and cold Maytag. Seriously, why would anyone at a respectable eatery put the focus on iceberg lettuce, the most boring type of the most boring salad ingredient?

Lo and behold, the dish arrived at the table: a quarter-head of iceberg (hence the "wedge") with some horseradishy dressing sprinkled on the top, two little pieces of cheese propped up on the side of the wedge, like a Christmas tree waiting for removal by the city, and about a dozen little squares of bacon on top. It looked like a scene out of college, except with better plates: when you don't have anything but some lettuce, salad dressing, and cheese and bacon bits in your fridge, you pile them up on a plate and dig in. Why anyone would pay $8 for it is beyond me.

It was explained to me by a dinner companion that I am out of the loop on these things and that "the iceberg wedge is a classic WASP dish and is very big right now." Cold, hard and bland - just like the admissions board of a top country club. No wonder that Americans have so eagerly dismissed their Mayflower heritage for pizza, chow mien, chicken tikka masala, falafel and many other dishes enjoyed in spicier parts of the world.

Buck's Fishing and Camping
5031 Connecticut Ave., NW
Washington, DC
202-364-0777

Eight Things To Do with an Eff-Cake

For all the fuss that fruitcakes get, I’ve never actually received the gift (or re-gifted it for that matter) in all my twenty Christmases. Call me young and naive, but the tradition seems as obsolete as wearing Ugg boots with skirts or holding Christmas soirees rather than Chrismukah ones. But for those of you who did receive a fruitcake (and please come forward) here are some ideas of how to put that Eff-cake to use.

1. Contribute to the Cold Stone Creamery Fruitcake Freedom Initiative. Donate a fruitcake to any Cold Stone location throughout the nation (click here for DC-area ones) during December, and receive 5 bucks off any 8-inch ice cream cake (originally around twenty-five bucks). Or use the credit toward one of the exclusive December ice cream flavors: either Santa's Reward—a Candy Cane ice cream mixed with double Oreos. Or After Dinner Mint—Dark Chocolate Peppermint ice cream swirled with marshmallows, Oreos and chocolate shavings.

2. Save money on bird seed. Even the National Wildlife Federation endorses the idea. But the nature activists warn cake abusers not to go tossing around pieces of rum-infused ones. We wouldn’t want the birds flying under the influence. And while you’re at it, sing along to the Mary Poppin’s classic. Feeeed the biiiiirds, tuppence a bag…

3. Buy a plane ticket to Manitou Springs, Colorado and feel free to chuck or hurl the brains out of the little Eff-devil. The Eleventh Annual Great Fruitcake Toss endorses fruitcake abuse of all kinds. This year, in response to the overwhelming flux of disgruntled recipients, the competition site has been upgraded to the Manitou Springs High School track! Yippe-iee-yahooo! Awards will go to the greatest hurled distance, as well as the most glamorous, creative and ugly transformations of a fruitcake. Oh and calling all Washington-area-ians, you may also go home with the furthest distance traveled award. That is, if you’re not opposed to the stack of required paperwork.

4. Splurge on a Panettone, the Eff-cake’s enchanting Italian cousin. Realize that there’s no way the dark horse relative will ever live up to the all-to-delicious-at-12-grams-of-fat-a-slice P-dream. She is light, fluffy and hardly reminiscent of anything leftover.

5. Forget Klondike. What would you do for a Fruitcake Sandwich? Thinly slice the Eff-baby and place a dollop of leftover ice cream (from last Sunday’s dessert fest) in between the two cake wafers. Wrap in any sort of foil or saran wrap and freeze overnight.

6. Fondue party anyone? Chop them into cubes with other miscellaneous leftover chunks (i.e. turkey, Uncle Eugene’s bright orange cheese cube, pie chunks, green beans) and throw together an alternative pre-New Year’s Fondue Ball. If the cake still resurfaces as leftovers, throw the pieces into the oven for 15ish minutes, and use as croutons in a sweeter salad. Like a pear and blue cheese one with raspberry vinaigrette.

7. You know you’re craving an Applesauce Cheddar Fruitcake…(umm, what?) Consult the Eff-cake recipe library if you really decide get into this.

8. Still not impressed? Try alternative doorstop, fireplace log or bathtub drainer—those seem to be the traditional favorites.